All About Boiled Wool Fabric (2024)

All About Boiled Wool

Boiled Wool is a beautiful, natural fabric made from the sheared fleece of live sheep. Wool is a sustainable fabric as sheep can be shorn once or twice a year so it is renewable as well as being biodegradable and recyclable. The wool fibres are knitted into fabric, then it is washed in hot water and to shrink the fibres. This process forms a medium weight fabric with a boucle texture, a lovely soft drape and a slight stretch to it. Because of the density of the fabric, and the lanolin content of the wool fibres, boiled wool is fairly water resistant and water droplets just roll off the surface.

  • 100% pure new wool
  • 136-138cm wide
  • 265 g/ per square metre
  • made in Italy

What can I sew with Boiled Wool?

Boiled Wool makes fantastic autumn and winter garments. You can also use it for soft furnishings. It is easy to cut and sew, and the cut edges do not fray, meaning hemming and lining Boiled Wool garments is optional. Here is a selection of ideal sewing patterns for this fabric:

Anni Blazer (PDF) by Dragonfly Fabrics

Chateau Coat and Brando Jacket from The Sewing Workshop

The Named Talvikki Sweater

The Yates Coat by Grainline and the lovely range of coats and jackets by Tessuti Patterns are perfect for our boiled wool:

All About Boiled Wool Fabric (2)

Anni Blazer PDF Sewing Pattern

Sewing Tips for Boiled Wool:


Preparation

Boiled Wool doesn’t need pre-washing. Simply steam your fabric all over from the right side, hovering the iron over it, then lay out flat to cool.

This fabric is easy to sew, doesn’t move around when you cut it and it won’t fray.

Boiled wool is ideal for making Autumn and Winter clothing and will also naturally repel water in the same way that a winter woollen coat does, making it perfect for jackets and coats, as well as skirts, dresses and tunics.

It’s advisable to stabilise the shoulders, neckline and armholes beforehand with twill tape or stay tape. This will prevent stretching.

Sewing

Use a ballpoint needle for sewing your boiled wool and use a longer stitch length on your machine. Do check first on a scrap though, as all machines are different.

If you have a walking foot, now’s the time to use it! It will deal with thicker layers admirably and stops them shifting about, especially useful on longer seams.

Alternatively use a medium size 80/12 or thicker needle and a normal straight stitch or a slight zigzag stitch on your machine.

Boiled wool doesn’t fray, so seams don’t need to be finished/ overlocked or zig zagged. However, to cut down on bulk, it may be helpful to topstitch seams down. This is done by sewing the seams as normal, then press them open.Topstitch both sides of the seam, very close to your original seam line. Or you can topstitch ¼” from the seam line for a more obvious topstitching feature.

How do I care for Boiled Wool?

We recommend dry cleaning. However, if you decide to wash your boiled wool, use a small amount of mild detergent then either hand wash or cool machine wash cycle. Lay flat to dry, don’t wring and press on a medium heat iron with steam from the wrong side of the fabric.

You can browse the selection on our website on the link below:

Dragonfly Fabrics Boiled Wool

All About Boiled Wool Fabric (4)

All About Boiled Wool Fabric (2024)

FAQs

What is boiled wool fabric? ›

Boiled wool is a type of fabric made by shrinking woven wool fabric in hot water. It's a unique fabric with a dense and compact texture, making it an ideal choice for outerwear and winter clothing. Boiled wool is more water-resistant than many other fabrics. Felted wool is made by agitating and shrinking wool fibers.

Is boiled wool good quality? ›

The result is a tighter and denser material that is up to 50% smaller in all directions than the pre-felted fabric. Boiled wool is warm, durable, and resistant to water and wind.

What does boiling do to wool? ›

Raw wool is placed into boiling water to shrink and constrict the fibers of the textile, giving it the softer and tighter feel that makes for a warmer, more durable end product.

What are the benefits of boiled wool? ›

Additionally, boiled wool is much warmer than traditional wool fabrics, making it the perfect choice for colder climates. Another great benefit of boiled wool is its durability. Because it is so densely packed, boiled wool is much more resistant to wear and tear than other types of wool fabrics.

How do you care for boiled wool fabric? ›

If your fabrics made of boiled wool have been somewhat soiled, you may clean them by gently brushing or shaking. You can hand wash or machine wash your boiled wool using cold water regardless of the method you choose. It is necessary to turn your clothes inside out before putting them in the washing machine.

Can you wear boiled wool in summer? ›

Wool against the skin offers insulation and temperature regulation, ensuring comfort in both winter and summer. It's not only cozy but thermoregulating and we have many options suitable for sensitive skin.

Can you wear boiled wool in the rain? ›

Characteristics of Boiled Wool Jackets

This fabric is highly insulating, making it ideal for outerwear in cold climates. Additionally, boiled wool is naturally water-repellent and breathable, providing comfort in a variety of weather conditions.

What is the best quality wool in the world? ›

Merino wool: natural performance

From nature comes the world's most technically advanced and original performance fibre. No other fibre can match all of Merino wool's benefits: breathable, moisture wicking and odour resistant.

How much does boiled wool shrink? ›

A tight, dense fabric, on the other hand, doesn't have much space for the individual fibers to move, making shrinkage less likely (but still possible). Generally, wool that has been felted or fulled can shrink by as much as 30%, which is a lot.

What can I make with boiled wool? ›

Boiled wool is ideal for making Autumn and Winter clothing and will also naturally repel water in the same way that a winter woollen coat does, making it perfect for jackets and coats, as well as skirts, dresses and tunics.

How long to boil wool? ›

Boil the hat for about 5 minutes using a spoon or tongs to agitate the hat and keep it under the water. (If the yarn has been dyed, some of the dye may leach out into the boiling water, but this shouldn't be a cause for worry.) After about five minutes, carefully remove the hat from the water and lay it out on a towel.

What is the difference between melton wool and boiled wool? ›

Boiled : this fabric has been knitted and then felted to create a dense fabric that falls somewhere between a knit and woven. It does not fray much. Melton : consists of short haired fibers which are tightly woven and then felted to create a dense, warm, stable fabric. Fraying on Melton is at a minimum.

How waterproof is boiled wool? ›

The air bubbles keep the fabric warm yet breathable. And because of the tighter weaves, boiled wool is surprisingly waterproof, which means that it sloughs off water droplets like a champ. The end result is that you get soft, light wools that are useful for inconvenient transitional weathers.

What is another name for boiled wool? ›

In contrast to other types of wool fabric, felt isn't made from yarn—it's made from raw wool. In making felt, the wool is first combed and then boiled with water. This type of felt is called boiled felt.

How do you get wrinkles out of boiled wool? ›

If a wool garment is only lightly rumpled and wrinkled, it can often be revived with steam alone. If you don't have a clothes steamer, simply hanging the garment on a sturdy hanger in a humid environment like a steamy bathroom may be enough. The heat and moisture will help the fibers relax and release the wrinkles.

What is a substitute for boiled wool fabric? ›

If you're seeking alternatives, consider felt for a similar density, wool flannel for a less felted feel, or fleece for a synthetic option. Discover the durability and warmth of boiled wool fabric by the yard and elevate your cool-weather creations to new heights.

Is boiled wool fabric itchy? ›

Boiled wool can be a bit itchy or coarse against the skin, so lining creates a barrier for more comfortable wear. This additional layer also aids in maintaining the garment's shape, providing structure and stability, and preventing stretching or distortion.

Is boiled wool dry clean only? ›

Clothing made of boiled wool needs to be steam/dry /fresh cleaned. If your boiled woolen coat gets slightly dirty, it's okay to brush it out or shake it carefully using a haired brush that is safe for wool. To avoid unwanted smells from boiled wool clothes, keep them in the bathroom while taking shower.

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