The undercut is extremely versatile, and it always adds a twist to any popular men’s hairstyle. From slick backs and pompadours to quiffs and disconnects. We’re breaking down the magic of the ever trending undercut and helping you choose the right one for you.
So, what exactly is an undercut? An undercut largely refers to any haircut that leaves length on top while the back and sides, in contrast, are cut short, faded or even totally buzzed off. Getting the perfect undercut is all about skills and precision. And since the skin fade versions are highly popular, choosing the right hairdresser or barber for this haircut is vital.
There are a few things you should consider before booking an appointment, if you are doubting weather the undercut is the right hairstyle for you.
Face shape: Which type of undercut to choose depends greatly on your face shape. A slick back or short haircut balances nicely with a longer face shape. In contrast, an undercut pompadour or quiff slightly cropped sides compliments a rounder face better.
Hair type: The undercut works with almost all hair types – from curly, coarse and thick to the thin.
Maintenance: As you may have guessed, the undercut is not maintenance free. It needs to be freshened up at least every 3 weeks. On the bright side, it is easy and fast to style in the morning once you get the hang of it.
The 3 Most Popular Undercuts
1. The Undercut Quiff: There are many, many different variations of this iconic hairstyle. Depending on your hair type, the undercut quiff can look either sharp and slick or more relaxed – you can even make it beachy.
2. The Slick Back Undercut: A classic slick back is always a good idea. It has a true gentleman’s touch to it, but adding an undercut takes the haircut to a whole other, cool level. The slick back undercut is, as you might have guessed, characterized by a visual difference between the length on top and the short sides. The sides are often times made as a complete disconnect. Pro Tip: Haven’t been blessed with hair of a lion? – Don’t go too high on the back and sides with the clipper. And make sure to keep as much length as possible to create a thicker look on top.
3. The Pompadour Undercut: The pompadour undercut has two sharp characteristics that set it apart from other types of undercuts. In order for the hair to be swept back in a pomp the haircut needs to be almost skin fade around back and sides and much longer on top of the head.
How to style a proper Undercut
Start out with a newly washed head of hair to remove product residue, excess oil and dirt before styling. Use a quality shampoo and wash your scalp with a shampoo brush. That’ll increase blood flow and stimulate hair growth. Remember to finish with a nourishing conditioner.
Add pre-styler to your hair game. Spray 15-20 pumps into the hair to protect from the heat of the blow-dryer and add texture, volume and hold. Use a styling tool to distribute the product evenly. Choose a brush or comb that suits your hair type and your preference when styling.
Time to blow-dry. Put your blow-dryer on maximum heat and use a comb or brush to create extra volume. Don’t be afraid to get in there using your hands to tousle and switch between drying backward and forwards for greater volume and texture.
Now you’re ready for the fun part! Grab your favorite wax or at styling product that matches the look you’re going for. A pomade is a good pick if you want a slick, smooth finish while a molding wax is the better choice for a more natural look with a longer lasting hold. Apply the product evenly all over the hair, always starting from the back to the front, and work it in thoroughly. Play around with it until you’re happy with the result. Finish off by using your preferred styling tool to work your hair into the desired position. Et voilà, you’re good to go!
Here's an example of an undercut with a twist. We love this look on Rasmus. Click play and get inspired...
The type of undercut to chose depends much on your face shape. A slick back or short haircut
short haircut
Short hair refers to any haircut with little length. It may vary from above the ears to below the chin. If a man's hair reaches the chin, it may not be considered short. For a woman, however, short varies from close-cropped to just above the shoulders.
Considering Getting an Undercut?Here's What You Need to Know
Consider Your Facial Features. First, consider your facial shape and hairline, and ask yourself what you might look like with all the hair on the sides of your head buzzed away. ...
Go for #1 (3mm) or #2 (6mm) size of hair clipper depending on how short you want it. Be sure not to trim any of the hair on your top section or parting. If you're doing a connected undercut, you'll want to switch to a clipper that's two sizes longer. Blend around the surface of the head.
For a modern look: “I want an undercut with a fade on the sides. Please leave the top longer, around four inches, so I can sweep it back or to the side.” For medium-length hair: “I'd like a layered cut with scissors only. I want to maintain the length around the ears and the nape, but please thin out the bulk a bit.”
The undercut hairstyle for men is popular, but you have to be sure it fits your face shape. When you have a square or oblong face shape then an undercut works great for you. It will soften the harder features of these face shapes.
Face shape: Which type of undercut to choose depends greatly on your face shape. A slick back or short haircut balances nicely with a longer face shape. In contrast, an undercut pompadour or quiff slightly cropped sides compliments a rounder face better.
A rule of thumb is that the undercut should be at least 1.5 threads long and the diameter should be at least 0.015 in (0.38 mm) smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. Strictly speaking the relief simply needs to be equal or slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the thread.
In most cases, an undercut is done to the section of hair just above the nape of the neck, so the rest of the hair falls over it. With mid-length to long hair, that means the cut section is only visible when you pull your hair up.
An undercut hairstyle is relatively easy to maintain. It typically involves keeping the sides and back of the hair very short, while allowing the top to be longer. The top can be styled in various ways, such as slicked back, messy, or combed over.
"I would say 80 percent of all types of undercutting are more for maintenance and ease rather than an aesthetic," says Colissa Nole, the Missouri-based stylist responsible for my undercut. "Guests are getting them done to create a weightless feel... most of them are done due to how thick the hair is."
Go for #1 (3mm) or #2 (6mm) size of hair clipper depending on how short you want it. Be sure not to trim any of the hair on your top section or parting. If you're doing a connected undercut, you'll want to switch to a clipper that's two sizes longer. Blend around the surface of the head.
Whether you have voluminous, curly bangs, or a thick, straight fringe, this style can be adapted to fit. Your bangs only need to be long enough to cover your forehead. The hairstyle is ideal for guys with large foreheads or longer faces, as it will appear to shorten the face length.
If you want to make a statement, it's best to go with an undercut that emphasizes length on top. Undercut variations can also be used to great effect by men with perms or thicker hair with natural waves or curls.
Historically, the undercut has been associated with poverty and inability to afford a barber competent enough to blend in the sides, as on a short back and sides haircut. From the turn of the 20th century until the 1920s, the undercut was popular among young working-class men, especially members of street gangs.
If you are planning to part the hair on the side, leave the hair closest to the part slightly longer (at least 6 inches). If you are planning on combing the hair straight back, there is no need to vary the length.
Introduction: My name is Greg O'Connell, I am a delightful, colorful, talented, kind, lively, modern, tender person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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