Hair extensions offer celebrities (and even us normies) the versatility to go from shoulder-length hair in the morning to waist-length waves at night. But as exciting as extensions are, the more you look into them, the more intimidating they can be. There are countless installation methods, and the list of terms used to describe the types of hair is never-ending (and not always self-explanatory).
So we decided to go to the experts—hairstylists and extension experts Shawntá Johns and Mel Moss—to get the 411 on adding inches to your mane. Read on for a comprehensive guide to all things hair extensions.
Meet the Expert
- Shawntá Johns is a hairstylist who specializes in curly hair and extensions and is the owner of by Shawntá Johns in Long Beach, California.
- Mel Moss is a hairstylist who specializes in hair coloring and extensions and is co-owner of Witch Hazel Salon in Indianapolis, Indiana.
Types of Hair Used in Extensions
Before we outline how extensions can be installed into the hair, it's important to understand the types of hair that can be used to create extensions."There are different grades ofhairthat can be used forhairextensionsapplication," explains Johns, ranging from synthetics to human, cuticle-intact unprocessedhair.Moss agrees and says generally, the easiest way to differentiate between hair extensions is synthetic and human hair. There are pros and cons when it comes to synthetic versus human hair, but Moss says both types are great depending on the client'shair and the style being created.
Moss also emphasizes the importance of sourcing hair ethically. "Just as quality is important, it's equally (if not more) important to know how it is sourced," she says. "There is definitely a dark side to thehairextensionindustry, and that'shairthat is not ethically sourced. It's important to know if yourhaircame from a willing donor or other sources, such as cadavers or even unsuspecting individuals who had their ponytail cut off and stolen."
Many industry-specific terms are used to "grade" the hair that goes into extensions; luckily, our experts broke down the basics for us.
Synthetic Hair
Synthetic hair is a great option for those first trying extensions, especially clip-ins for occasional use. Synthetic hair is essentially plastic and cannot be heat styled,but it is the mostaffordable option, according to Moss. "Synthetichairis mostly what lower-end wigs and clip-ins are made of," she says. Your mind might immediately jump to images of a bad Halloween wig, but it's important to note that synthetic extensions, wigs, and clip-ins have come a long way and can vary in quality depending on the price.
One thing to watch for with both synthetic and natural hair extensions is the use of silicones. Some companies coat the hair in silicones, making it look shiny and soft. But, as this wears off, the hair is more likely to tangle, and the strands will dull.
Human Hair
Humanhairvaries greatly in quality and sources, so it's important to know the terminology used to grade it if you're purchasing on your own. Moss says the most common phrase you'll hear referring to quality humanhairis Remy (sometimes spelled Remi) or Cuticle Intact. "This means that thehairis either virgin (non-chemically treated) or at least is as healthy as possible, with the cuticle lying flat all in the same direction," she says.
Humanhaircan come from many parts of the world, with the highest-producing countries being China and India. Moss says that these twohairtypes are very different but are both great depending on the client'shairit is being matched to.
If you're sourcing on your own, here are some terms you may want to know:
- Natural Hair: Typically refers to human hair, but likely not to the same quality as Remy hair. This hair may be processed or dyed.
- Remy Hair: Often considered the gold standard in extensions, Remy hair is human hair that is healthy and virgin (never before processed). Each strand is carefully selected to ensure the cuticle remains intact and all cuticles align. Because all the hairs run in the same direction, Remy hair maintains a soft, silky texture. This term can sometimes be overused or used incorrectly, so do your research before paying top-dollar for Remy hair that may come from dubious sources.
- Single-Drawn: This means the difference in the length of the strands should be no greater than 2 inches to ensure more uniform extensions.
- Double-Drawn: A step up from single-drawn, these strands should be essentially uniform throughout, so that there is little to no thinning at the bottom.
"The market is full ofhairvendors, all claiming to be the best with high-qualityhair," Johns cautions."If you're purchasinghairyourself (without a stylist recommendation), see if thehairvendor sells samples.Also, research reviews to see if the quality is consistent."
Types of Hair Extensions
The different types ofextensionmethods are almost endless, says Moss, which can make finding the right kind for you feel very overwhelming. Johns agrees, adding that the market is so vast and ever-changing that it's hard to keep up with all the new methods.
Further complicating things, Moss explains that these are very broad terms/methods, all of which have subcategories and off-shoots. Additionally, manyextensionmethods have different names but are installed in the same exact way."For example, beaded rowextensionsare called beaded wefts, brainless sew-ins, LA weave, and double wefts, to name a few," explains Johns.
Both experts say you should consult a pro to determine the best type of extensions for your hair. As Moss tells us, any method can be safe or damaging, depending on the professional who installs it and how it is taken care of by the client outside the salon.
Below are the most popular types of extensions.
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Clip-ins and Wigs
Clip-ins and wigs are great options for those looking for extra inches temporarily. Clip-ins come in a variety of handy pieces that can help you change your look, including clip-in bangs, ponytails, and buns. "Clip-ins are awesome for low-commitmentextensionwearers," says Johns. "You can wear them just for a day or special occasion and then remove them.If you take good care of them, they can last you a long time."
She adds that wigs are great if you're looking to experiment with different colors, textures, lengths, and densities."Much like clip-ins, you're not committed," Johns explains."However, you have the option with wigs/lace-front wigs to have them installed for extended amounts of time."
- Installment: For traditional clip-ins, instantaneous; for some wigs (especially lace fronts), installment can take about an hour.
- How Long They Last: Up to a week, depending on care
- Cost: Varies depending on quality and amount of hair
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Sew-in/Weave
One of the classic forms of extensions, a sew-in is a great option for longer-term wear. Also called a weave, a sew-in is traditionally sewn into the natural hair after it has been braided into cornrows. It does not work well in thin hair, as the wefts of hair need to be securely anchored to the natural hair. This form of extension is also known to be heavy and uncomfortable and can cause strain on the scalp.
- Installment: Can take several hours and be very uncomfortable
- How Long They Last: A few months; Considered to be the longest-lasting and the most seamless
- Cost: Anywhere between $85-$600, depending on the type and amount of hair
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Tape-ins
Tape-in hair extensions are exactly what they sound like—extensions that get taped (or glued) into the hair. The extensions are aligned with the roots, then glued to the natural hair. These extensions need to be removed by a stylist to minimize damage to the hair. If they are well cared for, the hair can be reinstalled at the root after removal.
"Adhesive-based methods such as tape-ins are not ideal for anyone who likes to air dry or needs a lot of moisture for theirhair/scalp," explains Moss. "These factors mean the adhesive will break down faster, resulting inextensionsslipping or falling out and needing reinstallation more frequently."
- Installment: About an hour and a half
- How Long They Last: 6-8 weeks
- Cost: $200-$400
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Beaded Rows
Beaded row extensions are Moss' favorite method: She says they require absolutely no heat or adhesive, use only about 10 percent of the individual's naturalhairinside the beads, are quick to install, and are easy to maintain at home. These factors result in anextensionmethod that is as safe as possible on the individual's naturalhair.
Beaded rows provide more fullness and are great for denserhair, says Johns. The application of beaded wefts is diverse as well."They can be installed to hide the beads or not," she says."They can be long or short rows, and you can control the density of each row as well as color blending with the wefts being installed."
- Installment: 2-5 hours, depending on the number of rows
- How Long They Last: Can stay in thehairfor up to 10 weeks and only need replacementhairevery 6-10 months
- Cost: $500-$800+, depending on the type of hair used
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Halo
Halo hair extensions are great for the individual who doesn't want to wear extensions all the time or commit to maintenance appointments, says Moss. A "halo" of hair is put onto the crown of the head and blended with the wearer's natural hair. "Halos just need a quick appointment with a stylist to have them cut to blend with the client'shairand then can be worn as often as desired for years as long as the client takes good care of thehairat home," explains Moss. "They're also great for special events and are less damaging than clip-ins."
- Installment: A short salon visit to cut and blend the halo with the natural hair and then quick application at home as needed.
- How Long They Last: Years, depending on care
- Cost: $200-$500
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Microlinks
Microlink extensions are a method where you attach the extensions to the hair using a tiny silicone bead. The bead is then clamped into space using a special tool. Since the tiny bead is attached so close to the scalp, microlink extensions tend to look more natural than other methods.
- Installment: Can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours in a salon
- How Long They Last: 3 to 5 months, depending on hair growth and maintenance
- Cost: Anywhere between $800-$1200
