The Four Fundamental Basic Haircuts - The Strand (2024)

Hairstyles have always been a significant aspect of personal grooming and self-expression. They can convey a multitude of messages, from professionalism to rebellion, sophistication to nonchalance.

At the core of hairstyling lies the haircut, and among the plethora of styles available, four fundamental cuts serve as the building blocks for countless variations, which is taught when someone becomes a hairdresser. Understanding these basic haircuts lays the foundation for exploring a world of hairstyling possibilities.

The Four Basic Haircuts

Hairstylists tend to use four basic haircuts as a base for styling hair. These include:

  • The 0 Degree, or Bob
  • The 45 Degree, or Wedge
  • The 90 Degree, or Layered
  • The 180 Degree, or Shag

Each basic haircut allows hairdressers to adjust based on their client’s preferences. We will explore each style in more detail below and how to approach the cut as a hairdresser.

The 0 Degree “Bob”

The 0 degree haircut, commonly referred to as the “Blunt” or “Bob” haircut, is a timeless style known for its straight and even cut.

To execute this haircut, it’s essential to divide the hair into four sections using hair clips. Begin by creating a guide section at the nape of the neck by combing a section straight down and cutting it bluntly across, ensuring it remains parallel to the floor. Proceed to alternate between the sections on either side, matching them to the guide section until the hair is uniformly cut all around.

The 45 Degree “Wedge”

The 45-degree haircut, also recognised as the “Wedge” or “Bob,” features a distinctive triangular shape with graduated edges. This cut creates diagonal movement from the back to the front, accentuated by a weight line along the perimeter.

Maintaining parallel cutting lines in relation to hand and body positioning is crucial, along with clear sectioning. Begin by dividing the hair into seven sections, and cutting small guides to determine the desired length. Ensure symmetry by measuring and comparing the sides before proceeding from the front sections to the back. Utilise a 45-degree elevation when cutting the sectioned hair, periodically checking for evenness throughout. Cross-checking ensures uniformity, addressing any missed sections for a polished finish.

The 90 Degree “Layered”

The 90-degree haircut, also known as the “Layered” cut, requires precise layering to achieve optimal movement, making it one of the more intricate styles.

Start by sectioning the hair into five parts. When cutting, hold each section at a 90-degree angle from the head and trim accordingly. As the hair falls back into place, the angle creates natural layers. Establishing guides for each hair section ensures uniformity, with careful attention to symmetry between the left and right sides.

The 180 Degree “Shag”

The 180-degree haircut, commonly referred to as the “Shag,” or reverse elevation, is typically reserved for longer hair compared to other styles on the list.

Begin by dividing the hair into five sections. When ready to cut each section, comb the hair upward and trim straight across. Continue this process, taking horizontal pairings and combing them up to meet the stationary guidelines. Establishing the desired length for the client before completing the entire circumference ensures consistency and precision.

Achieve Your Ideal Hairstyle at The Strand

The Strand in Chelmsford and Shenfield is operated by experienced hairstylists trained at our Hairdressing Academy.

Book your visit at each location on our website and discover our wide range of hairstyling services for women.

The Four Fundamental Basic Haircuts - The Strand (2024)

FAQs

What are the principles of haircutting? ›

The five elements of hair design are: line, form, space, texture, and color. The five important principles of hair design are: proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony. Hair type is defined by two major characteristics: wave patterns and hair texture.

What is the layer cut theory? ›

The layered hair effect is achieved by taking sections of hair vertically across the head, pulling it perpendicular to the head, and cutting straight across. Sliding haircut: The hair is sectioned in 4 parts, starting with back section and cut radially at 20 deg angle.

What is a 4 guard haircut? ›

4 = ½ inch. This guard is closer to a crew cut than a buzz cut. This length is great for people with thick or thinning hair. 5 = ⅝ th of an inch. Frequently used in a taper and considered closer to a crew cut or classic cut.

What are the four corners in haircutting? ›

Apex: the highest point on the top of the head. 4. Four corners: located by crossing two diagonal lines at the apex; lines point to front/back corners of the head.

What is the number 1 haircut? ›

If you ask your barber for a number one cut, you are asking them to cut your hair so it is an eighth of an inch long. If you ask for a number eight cut, the hair left on your head will be one inch. Here are all the haircut length numbers and their corresponding clipper guard size: Zero: 1/16 of an inch.

How many types of hair cutting are there? ›

You will find short haircuts, quiffs, pompadours, fade haircuts, medium and long hair options.

What are the four characteristics of hair that determine its behavior? ›

When analyzing four characteristics determine the behavior of hair. Growth patterns Texture Density Elasticity 6. TheHairlineis the hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck.

Which haircut adds volume? ›

Having a haircut with a strong one-length – and especially above shoulder – will make hair look thicker,” he says. “If you have thin hair, I would recommend having mid length or shorter hair styles. The lob, the bob, the midi, and pixie or mixie work really well for making thin hair appear thicker,” says Jordanna.

What haircut reduces hair volume? ›

Opt instead for a super short hairstyle, like a pixie cut, or a longer hairstyle that sits below your shoulders. Tip: A long bob is an ideal hairstyle for your thick, voluminous hair! Add long layers. Adding long layers to your thick, unruly, or wavy hair will reduce the appearance of volume.

What is a 5 haircut? ›

Number 1 clipper: 1/8 inch. Number 2 clipper: 1/4 inch. Number 3 clipper: 3/8 inch. Number 4 clipper: 1/2 inch. Number 5 clipper: 5/8 inch.

What is the 5 point haircut? ›

Of the look, Vidal said: “The Five Point cut was the epitome of nine years of work that lead up to it. In essence, it was a geometric shape that covered the entire head. It had to be cut to bone structure with two points at the side and three in the nape, following the natural contours of the hair.”

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