The uncomfortable hidden truths about cheap cashmere
NPR's Mary Louise Kelly speaks with Ginger Allington, landscape ecologist and assistant professor at Cornell, about unsustainable practices used in producing cheap cashmere.
MARY LOUISE KELLY, HOST:
As I am speaking to you right now, I am sitting here wearing a cozy, cashmere sweater, which is actually relevant to our next interview because apparently a lot of us are wearing cozy, cashmere sweaters. Today, you can buy this luscious piece of luxury for a lot less money than in past. A cashmere sweater can run you less than a hundred bucks depending on the retailer. So why not indulge? It turns out, though, that cheap cashmere has hidden costs to the fragile ecosystems where it is produced. That is according to Ginger Allington. She's a landscape ecologist and assistant professor at Cornell, and she just wrote about this in an op-ed for The New York Times, which was headlined "This Holiday Consider The True Cost Of Cheap Cashmere." Professor Allington, welcome.
GINGER ALLINGTON: Thank you for having me.
KELLY: Well, let's do the basics. You write, every cashmere sweater begins with a goat. Explain. How is it made? Where does it come from?
ALLINGTON: Sure. Well, the cashmere that we wear starts out as the underhair that grows on cashmere goats. And then that is sold and processed and spun into the fiber that we use for our sweaters.
KELLY: And these goats - this is Central Asia that we're talking - China, Mongolia.
ALLINGTON: Yes. The majority of the cashmere that is produced today is produced in northern China, in inner Mongolia and in Mongolia.
KELLY: OK, so how has it gotten to be so much more affordable than it was even - I don't know - a decade or two ago? It used to run you a few hundred dollars to buy a good cashmere sweater.
ALLINGTON: Yes, that's a great question. There's been such a huge increase in the number of cashmere goats because the demand is so high that there's actually some degradation of the habitats that they grow in. And that ends up producing lower-quality fiber in the long run. And that produces a lower-quality sweater, which then you can buy for a lot less money.
KELLY: Yeah. So I want to dig in on this, the reasons that the way that we're doing it today is not sustainable. You've actually been there - right? - and seen how this plays out on the Central Asian Steppes. What do you see?
ALLINGTON: We see a big change in the grasslands of that region. There's a lot less vegetation, a lot more exposed soils, particularly in areas where there is a huge increase in the number of livestock. And to be clear, goats have been raised in this area for a long time as well, but there are just many, many more of them than there used to be. And goats are much more efficient browsers and grazers than some of the other livestock that are traditionally grown in this region. They can really remove a lot more of the vegetation down to the roots. And so that just further degrades the system.
KELLY: Yeah. So what are ideas out there to produce cashmere in a way that doesn't wreck these grasslands for future generations of goats but that, if we want to, we can continue to wear cashmere?
ALLINGTON: Well, honestly, I don't know that there is a way to sustainably produce cashmere at the scale at which we're consuming it today. I think demand needs to go down for that particular fiber such that herders can produce less of it at a higher quality. And then that needs to be then balanced out by increased demand for other fibers as well. You can produce great products from camels and yaks and sheep.
KELLY: OK, so the answer for those of us who want to do the right thing for the environment and also don't want to freeze all winter is consider other fibers, other types of sweaters.
ALLINGTON: Consider other fibers. Buy vintage cashmere. A lot of the used, older cashmere that you can buy on eBay and from thrift stores - that's much likely a much higher-quality sweater that's going to last a lot longer. If you pay $50 for a sweater, you're going to get what you pay for, and you'll end up needing to buy another one next year. And that just perpetuates the cycle.
KELLY: Ginger Allington, landscape ecologist and assistant professor at Cornell. Thank you so much.
ALLINGTON: Thank you very much.
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FAQs
There's been such a huge increase in the number of cashmere goats because the demand is so high that there's actually some degradation of the habitats that they grow in. And that ends up producing lower-quality fiber in the long run.
What are the ethical issues with cashmere? ›
Unregulated, brutal killing. The vast majority of cashmere comes from China and Mongolia. In these countries, there are minimal or no laws protecting goats from cruelty. Goats in the cashmere industry are often slaughtered while fully conscious without being stunned prior, or hit in the head with a hammer.
What is the big deal about cashmere? ›
With notable breathability, yet providing incredible warmth, cashmere ticks all the boxes for cozy and comfortable winter wear. Cashmere comes from long, soft natural fibres which, when woven, create luxuriously soft pieces, and the best part is that they get softer with age.
Is it worth buying cashmere? ›
Quality cashmere is not only the finest, softest and warmest yarn, but it is also a very durable product, which can easily last 10 years and over 200 wears when taken care of properly.
What is a cheaper version of cashmere? ›
Yak wool, AKA “khullu” is not only a cashmere alternative because it's similarly soft and comfy to wear all the time. Khullu is also considered an alternative because it's more sustainable, breathable, durable, and warmer than cashmere.
How to spot cheap cashmere? ›
To test, stretch a small section of the fabric and see if this 'bounces back'; lower quality cashmere will not do this, and instead may sag or become misshapen over time. Similarly, you may notice that the seams and stitching are not as well constructed.
Can you get cruelty-free cashmere? ›
Ethical Cashmere Brands
Naadam's range is made with what they call “the only cruelty-free cashmere.” They hand-comb their goats, pay higher direct-to-supplier prices to herders, provide livestock insurance and veterinary care funds for herders, and give back through a partnership with the Gobi Revival Fund.
What are the disadvantages of cashmere? ›
Cons of Cashmere Fabric
- It requires special care/ dry cleaning.
- Cashmere is very tender, so we need to care about it.
- It is a short fiber and has weak strength.
- It is not a very flexible material.
- It is not very durable.
- Piling can be an issue with cashmere fabric.
Cashmere is made from the soft undercoat of goats who are cruelly abused and violently killed. Ninety per cent of all cashmere comes from China and Mongolia and the rest from countries like India, Iran, and Tibet. One goat produces, on average, only 250 grams of hair that can be used for cashmere each year.
Which cashmere brand is most expensive? ›
Ladakhi Cashmere is the finest all the production of this fine wool. Ladakhi Cashmere is the most expensive in the world; this is due to many reasons. From its procurement to the making of the final product, Cashmere fibre gets a manual processing to produce Pashmina shawls, scarves or smaller accessories.
A sweater made of baby alpaca wool, in terms of softness and strength, wins over cashmere. Cashmere fibers are four centimeters long, while alpaca fibers measure between eight and twelve centimeters. This means that alpaca fiber garments are more resistant, therefore long-lasting and less prone to pilling effect.
What is the rarest cashmere? ›
Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year and is expensive. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there is almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world.
Is there anything better than cashmere? ›
Both the yak and the alpaca lack the worldwide recognition of cashmere, but products made from these fabrics are of very high quality and they are becoming very popular. If you are planning on buying a warm and soft sweater, these two premium natural materials are also an ideal choice.
Which country has the best cashmere? ›
Cashmere production around the world
China is the second-largest producer, followed by Iran, Afghanistan, and Kazakhstan. The quality and quantity of cashmere produced vary significantly by country. Mongolia produces the highest quality cashmere, which is characterized by its softness, warmth, and durability.
How can you tell if cashmere is high quality? ›
The Look Test: With a sharp eye, and maybe some help from a magnifying glass, you can analyze the structure of cashmere fabric. High-quality cashmere has a very tight structure. You can also look at the surface of the fabric. You should be able to see small, up to 2mm long, fluff on the surface.
What are the disadvantages of cashmere fabric? ›
Cons of Cashmere Fabric
- It requires special care/ dry cleaning.
- Cashmere is very tender, so we need to care about it.
- It is a short fiber and has weak strength.
- It is not a very flexible material.
- It is not very durable.
- Piling can be an issue with cashmere fabric.
The Look Test: With a sharp eye, and maybe some help from a magnifying glass, you can analyze the structure of cashmere fabric. High-quality cashmere has a very tight structure. You can also look at the surface of the fabric. You should be able to see small, up to 2mm long, fluff on the surface.
Why can a cashmere sweater cost $2000 or $30? ›
Cashmere has historically been expensive because it comes from cashmere goats, who are found in Mongolia, China, and parts of Afghanistan. These goats, incidentally, are adorable.
